'66 - olej i paliwo

[wlmaks]

Witam,

jestem nowy na forum, zdarzylem sie juz przywitac, ale nie znalazlem na forum niestety odpowiedzi na 2 podstawowe dla mnie pytania. Moze mi bedziecie w stanie pomoc.
Mustang '66 289 V8
1) olej silnikowy. Jaki i gdzie kupic? (to ze zwykly 15w40 ze skelpu nie da rady juz wiem)
2) benzyna bezolowiowa. Da sie sprawdzic czy ktorys z poprzednich wlascicieli przerabial gniazda zaworowe?

[MAX]

Witam w klubie wimaks


Mysle że nie ma problemu z dobraniem oleju mineralnego ,poszukaj po sieci jest sporo propozycji na przykład ten

lub taki

wszystko zależy od ceny

co do twojego drugiego pytania nie wiem czy ktoś z nas wykonał taki zabieg , miedzy czasie możesz poratować sie takim specyfikiem viewtopic.php?f=80&t=4165&hilit=dodatek ... a&start=45" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[stang67]

Było coś o oleju... viewtopic.php?f=49&t=3306" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[wlmaks]

dzieki za odpowiedzi.

wiecie moze jeszcze jaka powinien miec kompresje w barach?

[stang67]

kompresja jesli masz c-code 9.3:1

[Piotrek86skc]

Pozwolę sobie odświezyć.
http://www.orlenoil.pl/oferta/samochody ... 1,122.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co myslicie o takim olej i filtrze fl-1a motorcrafta.
Podobno jak ma specyfikację SF to nie trzeba używać dodatków.

[Piotrek86skc]

Pozwolę sobie odświezyć.
http://www.orlenoil.pl/oferta/samochody ... 1,122.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Co myslicie o takim olej i filtrze fl-1a motorcrafta.
Podobno jak ma specyfikację SF to nie trzeba używać dodatków.

Jutro mam zamiar wymieniać olej i potrzebuję odpowiedzi czy miał ktoś jakieś doświadczenia z tym olejem??

[rick]

Jestem zdziwiony można jeszcze znaleźć oleju SF. Tak mozna, było robione dla starszych silników.

My Nie kupujemy tego rodzaju tutaj. Używamy nowoczesnego oleju i dajemy cynku dodatek, lub używamy nowych oleje przeznaczone do starych silników

http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=oil ... 66&bih=634" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Piotrek86skc]

Cześć.
Widzę, że niektórzy do klasyków leją mineralny a inni syntetyczny. W czym jest różnica?
Ogólnie to dzięki, że kolejny raz pomagasz, chociaż czytać posty po polsku pewnie nie jest łatwo;D
Reszta powinna się wstydzić;p

[Piotrek86skc]

Facet w sklepie z częściami bardzo mi polecał:
http://www.ceramizer.pl/component/optio ... /Itemid,1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Macie opinie na ten temat??

[CzyTyTez]

widzę większość z Was przy wymianie używa Lubro 20w50 lub jakiś inny odpowiednik (przeczytałem chyba wszystkie wątki o oleju), mi ostatnio przypadł do gustu Gulf classic 20w50, kosztuje ok. 120zł za 5l, to nie jest jeszcze drogo, ma w swoim składzie ZDDP, ale ile to nie chcieli mi po wymianie mailowej zdradzić (za to jednak dostałem od Gulfa miły upominek ).
Kończy się remont mojego silnika i czas go zalać, w warsztacie sugerują 15w40 (np. Castrol GTX magnatec) na pierwszy raz bez dodatków? czy jednak dorzucić ten dodatek, choćby lucasa? ew. co gdzie w Polsce kupić? pytam bo kupno z-roda 10w30 wydaje mi się zbyt drogą zabawą (ok. 250zł za 5l)
btw, optymalnym wyborem wydało mi się kupno valvolina vr1 10w30, niestety w Polsce niedostępny, dystrybucja tylko na USA i Australie...

i jeszcze ciekawy artykuł:
http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/articles.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[lamina]

Valvoline VR1 20W50 zawiera
pompa w tych silnikach słabiej pompuje rzadki olej.
jeśli nie jeździsz w zimie i koło 0 stopni to gęstość 20 bedzie jak najbardziej odpowiednia.

A od magnatec'a trzymaj się daleko.

[CzyTyTez]

czyli rozumiem polecasz na pierwsze zalanie również 20w50?
jeżeli chodzi o valvoline vr1 20w50 to ma klasę SL, a jeżeli dobrze rozumiem do naszych aut potrzebny jest olej klasy SF?
klasę SF ma np. Lubro oraz Gulf

[lamina]

w kilku autach zalewałem ten olej, teraz w GT390 tez leje taki, ze swojej strony polecam szczerze.

[CzyTyTez]

brnąc dalej w temat natknąłem się na kolejny ciekawy artykuł wg którego na pierwsze zalanie powinno się użyć SAE 30, przy okazji pompę oleju zalewając ręcznie? wypełniając jej wszystkie wnęki...:
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=17118.0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What You May Not Know About Today's Engine Oils Could Harm Your Vintage Mustang's Engine
By Jim Smart
Photography by Jim Smart, The Mustang Monthly Archives, the Manufacturers

Engine oil seems so simple. It's slippery. It keeps metal parts from fusing together. It's messy, especially when it has been squeezed, slung, and sprayed around the inside of a hot engine for thousands of miles. And after it has been inside an engine for a few thousand miles, it seems dirty, worn out, and ready for disposal. But engine oil never wears out. It gets contaminated from combustion byproducts and it loses its additives to heat and pressure, which is why it must be changed from time to time. Otherwise, oil lasts virtually forever.

Oil is your engine's life blood. Not only is oil a lubricant, it is also a coolant as it transfers tremendous amounts of heat because it is in direct contact with the hottest components in your engine. Main, rod, and cam bearing journal temperatures can run upward of 400 degrees in normal operation. Conventional engine oil begins to break down around 260 degrees (synthetic oil is good up to 300 degrees). Above 300 degrees, engine oil begins to cook and stops being an effective lubricant. Oil survives the extreme heat because it keeps moving, getting rid of heat as it flows. This is why proper bearing journal clearances are crucial to engine survival. Oil must keep moving in order to both lubricate and transfer destructive heat.

One of the worst things you can do to your engine is start it. During those first few seconds of operation, there's no oil pressure at the bearings nor is there oil splash to lubricate other moving parts. Imagine crankshaft journals and bearings, not to mention piston rings and cylinder walls, getting together under high pressure before lubrication reaches them. This is where most engine wear comes from.

Lubrication is nothing more than a liquid wedge (cushion) between moving parts to prevent friction. But this alone doesn't guarantee success. Because liquid cannot be compressed, it is the perfect type of lubrication because it prevents metal-to-metal contact. When this film is pressurized, it creates a solid barrier between moving parts. Think of the liquid wedge like you would tires hydroplaning on wet pavement. Tires move over the surface without actually touching the pavement.

In theory, the liquid wedge should always keep moving parts apart. However, there are factors that can break down the barrier. And when this happens at high rpm, destruction can occur in a nanosecond. Extreme heat, which causes lubrication to break down, ultimately brings moving parts together to cause engine damage.

This leads us to the main point of this article--zinc, or more specifically the lack of it in today's oils. Oil companies started adding ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) to engine oil back in the 1950s to help reduce wear and tear during engine start-up. How important is ZDDP to your classic Mustang's engine? It reduces bearing and journal wear by a factor of 20. It's that important.

ZDDP acts as an anti-wear barrier with great staying power when we shut an engine down. It does essentially the same job tetraethyl lead did for exhaust valves and seats before it was removed from gasoline in the 1980s to reduce air pollution. Lead acted as an anti-wear element between valve and seat. When the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) mandated lead's removal from gasoline, it caused quite a stir in the classic car community because enthusiasts feared excessive exhaust valve and seat wear. The solution was the installation of hardened exhaust valve seats in older iron cylinder heads.

According to the EPA and automakers, ZDDP deposits can damage catalytic converters in new cars, reducing their effectiveness as pollution control devices. The zinc bonds to the metal catalyst beads inside the converter, which undermines their purpose. For motor vehicles with catalytic converters (1975-up), it can mean increasing pollution levels from contaminated catalytic converters.

This is the first place oil arrives under pressure--crankshaft main bearing journals (except the 351C where cam bearings get oil first). Pressure must always be maintained during engine operation to keep a liquid wedge between journals and bearings. Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm. Oil pressure is lost when bearing/journal clearances become excessive. It also can become lost with excessive pump rotor clearances or defective pressure relief valve operation.

Here's a connecting rod bearing that has suffered friction damage from oil wedge breakdown between bearing and journal. Heat has become extreme along the bearing's center. Once damage begins, it only gets worse. Material melts away under extreme heat and pressure.

This flat-tappet hydraulic camshaft has suffered the rigors of wear and tear. The journals appear to have had sufficient lubrication but the lobes are excessively worn. This is what the zinc issue is all about. Zinc has always been an engine oil additive designed to reduce engine wear.

Sufficient zinc levels in engine oil aren't just about flat-tappet engines, but severe duty as well. Zinc provides an important anti-wear barrier that racers need under grueling conditions.

All classic Mustang engines have positive-displacement oil pumps, also known as "G-rotor" pumps with a two-stage inner and outer rotor. The inner rotor is camshaft driven. The outer rotor rides on the inner rotor, with the two closing up and moving oil from the pan to the engine's oil galleys. Whenever you replace an oil pump or build an engine, pump cavities must be filled with SAE 30 weight oil or engine assembly lube to ensure pump priming for a healthy start up.

Your engine's greatest enemy outside of oil starvation is dirt--no matter how small. Look at the damage to this small-block Ford oil pump's rotors and cavity. The scoring lines were caused by dust and dirt that got into the oil.

Here's how bad foreign matter in your oil can get. Debris was drawn into an oil pump, causing the pump to seize, which sheared this shaft.

Because the EPA wants a minimum 100,000-mile lifespan from catalytic converters, they need a fighting chance at survival. Zinc in the oil undermines that survival. That's why both the automakers and Washington decided zinc had to be eliminated from engine oil.

Without zinc in the oil, wear for vintage engines with flat tappet cams increases exponentially. In fact, it is alarming how quickly it happens and how much damage it does. Zinc is crucial not just for cold start-up, but extreme conditions that make heavy-duty engine oils necessary for reliable operation. There's no magic in heavy-duty engine oil, just higher levels of ZDDP to help reduce wear.

The first thing you want to know about engine oil is if it has an "SM" rating, which indicates greatly reduced or zero zinc levels, which makes it harmful to your classic Mustang's engine. Do not use engine oil with the "SM" rating. Or, if you're going to use engine oil with the "SM" rating, use a zinc additive that will maintain proper ZDDP levels. Front and center for this issue is California, which wants all zinc eliminated from engine oil. Regardless of what government and industry mandate for engine oil, it is up to you to ensure sufficient zinc levels are maintained when you change or add oil.

ZDDP is crucial to engine wear and break-in issues because so many things need to happen when you fire an engine for the first time. When you fire a vintage engine with flat tappets for the first time and run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes, you are work-hardening the cam lobes to ensure long life. Cam lobes not only move the lifters, pushrods, and valves, they also spin the lifters in their bores for proper function. The lifter and lobe must have sufficient traction for spinning to happen. This is why you don't want to run synthetic oil or friction-reducing additive during break-in. ZDDP helps lifter/lobe traction. It also works into your engine's hardest working parts.

Marvin McAfee of MCE Engines suggests using a powerful magnet at the pick-up screen to keep ferrous metals out of the pump. Magnetic drain plugs are also an excellent idea because you can see ferrous metals, if any, during oil changes.

Which type of engine oil should you use and what viscosity? Freshly built engines should get a conventional, non-detergent, heavy-duty SAE 30 weight oil for proper break-in. Once the engine has passed 500-1,000 miles, you can run Mobil 1 10W30 or 10W40 synthetic along with a ZDDP additive. If synthetic is beyond your budget, choose Castrol, Valvoline, or Mobil 10W30 or 10W40. High-mileage engines that have had a diet of conventional oil need to stay with conventional oil, either 10W40 or 20W50.

Read carefully what's on the bottle. A "newer vehicle formula" means the oil probably doesn't include zinc. If you see "SM," that means low zinc or no zinc.

Conventional engine oils are the right choice for break-in and for higher mileage engines. Viscosity should be 10W40 or 20W50 for high-mileage engines. Aside from ZDDP, your engine oil doesn't need any other kind of additive.

nie wiem tylko gdzie ten magnes przyłożyć dla pozbycia się/wyeliminowania z obiegu(?) ew. opiłków(?)